Accession Number
2000/2.20

Title
Beaded Apron

Artist(s)
Kirdi

Object Creation Date
circa 1890-1920

Medium & Support
string, beads, and cowrie shells

Dimensions
10 7/16 in x 28 ¾ in (26.51 cm x 73.02 cm);x 10 4/5 in x 27.46 cm

Credit Line
Gift of Dr. James and Vivian Curtis

Label copy
Fall 2017 Gallery Rotation Label:

This style of beaded apron was once worn by members of the so-called Kirdi culture in the region bordering northern Cameroon and Nigeria. The word Kirdi, which translates to “pagan” or “heathen” was imposed upon this diverse group of peoples by their Muslim neighbors to signify that they did not practice Islam.  
 
One of the characteristics that unified members of these communities, which are comprised of many cultural groups with their unique customs, was the widespread use of beadwork to decorate women’s bodies. Around the age of six or seven, young girls began wearing leather belts, which were exchanged for beaded aprons when they reached marriageable age. Belts of brass rings or beads were also worn, and the quantity of decorative objects directly reflected a woman’s wealth and status. 

Subject matter
This object is listed as made by Kirdi peoples; while most likely correct, it is not without issue. “Kirdi”, meaning pagan, was the label given to the various peoples from northern Cameroon, northeastern Nigeria, and southern Chad by neighboring Fulani and Kanuri peoples because they did not practice Islam, while the latter do. The people collectively known as “Kirdi” are actually many different cultural groups with their own customs. However, due to a lack of information on where exactly this object came from, it is not possible to say with certainty which group of people created it.

Aprons, called pikuran in some areas, were worn by Kirdi girls and women on special and ceremonial occasions. Around the age of six or seven young girls began wearing a leather belt with two straps, sometimes with a second string belt, where four string panels would hang down in front and one in back. At a marriageable age, young women wore beaded aprons to indicate their eligibility for marriage. In addition to aprons, belts of brass rings or beads were also worn, as more objects displayed a woman’s wealth and status. Various designs and styles referred to a woman’s cultural group, marital status, and age. When Cameroon gained independence in 1961, the government issued regulations requiring that women be fully dressed. In some areas, these aprons are still used, but no longer made.  

References Cited: 
Gebauer, Paul. 1979. Art of Cameroon. Portland, Or.: Portland Art Museum.
Lembezat, Bertrand. 1961. Les populations païennes du Nord-Cameroun et de l'Adamaoua. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.
Lembezat, Bertrand. 1952. Mukulehe; un clan montagnard du Nord-Cameroun; coutumes, rites, croyances. Paris: Berger-Levrault.
Northern, Tamara. 1984. The Art of Cameroon. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution.
Page, Donna. 2007. A Cameroon World. New York: QCC Art Gallery Press.

Physical Description
An apron made from red, blue, white, and yellow beads in a zig-zag pattern. There are two strings attached at the top of the apron, to tie around the waist. The bottom of the apron is decorated with a fringe of cowrie shells. 

Primary Object Classification
Costume and Costume Accessories

Primary Object Type
apron

Collection Area
African

Rights
If you are interested in using an image for a publication, please visit http://umma.umich.edu/request-image for more information and to fill out the online Image Rights and Reproductions Request Form. Keywords
beads
cache-sexes
ceremonial costume
fertility
shells
social status
symbols of office or status
wealth
women (female humans)