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Between and Mortarboard

UMMA Object Specific Fields

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Accession Number



Artist Nationality
Japanese (culture or style)

Object Creation Date
mid- to late-20th century

Medium & Support

61 in x 48 in (154.94 cm x 121.92 cm)

Credit Line
Gift of Mrs. Kazuko Miyake

Label copy
Sho ̄wa period period (1926–89)
Mid to late 20th century
White silk with purple tie-dye design and embroidery
Gift of Mrs. Kazuko Miyake, 2016/2.69
By the mid-twentieth century, kimono were primarily worn on
formal or special occasions. These exquisitely produced garments
often feature bright colors and elaborate patterns. This kimono is
lavishly decorated with red and green paulownia blossoms paired
with rooster-like phoenixes, both of which suggest prosperity and
good fortune.
Multiple techniques were used to produce this luxurious garment.
The vibrantly colored phoenix is embroidered with silk threads,
while the red and green blossoms were created by weaving
lacquer-coated urushi threads into the silk fabric. The white
geometric patterns, as well as the additional birds and flowers,
were produced using the shibori dyeing technique. To create these
variations in color, small bunched portions of undyed silk are
tightly wrapped with thread. After being dyed, the binding threads
are removed, revealing the undyed parts of the fabric and creating
a subtle, puckered texture.

Subject matter

Chirimen refers to the unique wrinkled texture, also called crepe texture, created by a specific weaving technique. This texture is often used with traditional Japanese fabrics, often silk, wool, or synthetic fiber.

Shibori is labor intensive dying technique in which hundreds of hours are spent tying miniscule sections of the fabric before immersing it in dye, leaving the tied parts white. Shibori textiles are very expensive due to the time and skills required to produce them.

The inner lining includes eight different parts (hakkake) on the bottom and sleeve edges that gives the inner lining a more colorful appearance.

Physical Description

lavender and white chirimen kimono with shibori dyed and interwoven violet and maroon kirimon (paulownia) with one embroidered phoenix motifs located at the bottom left and with a red and violet inner lining.

Primary Object Classification
Costume and Costume Accessories

Primary Object Type

Collection Area

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Paulownia (genus)
lavender (color)
maroon (color)

& Author Notes

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