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Between and Mortarboard

UMMA Object Specific Fields

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Accession Number



Artist Nationality
Japanese (culture or style)

Object Creation Date
mid- to late-20th century

Medium & Support

60 in x 47 ½ in (152.4 cm x 120.65 cm)

Credit Line
Gift of Mrs. Kazuko Miyake

Subject matter

The oogi (fan) motifs contain dyed and gold embroidered cranes, pine trees, autumnal leaves,  chrysanthemums, plum blossoms, kanze (whirlpool), takara zukushi (precious objects) motifs with silver threaded and shibori-dyed wave motifs.

The dyed portions were rendered using tegaki yuzen process.

Yuzen is a stretch-resist dyeing technique invented by Miyazaki Yuzen, a famous Kyoto fan-painter during the Gentoku era (1688-1704). Yuzen has two dyeing styles: “Tegaki Yuzen” hand painting and “Kata Yuzen” stencil dyeing.  “Tegaki Yuzen” is the more traditional technique. Its hand-painting skills create beautiful and elaborate designs. “Tegaki Yuzen” is named differently according to the place in which it was produced: Kyo Yuzen (Kyoto), Kaga Yuzen (Ishikawa) and Tokyo Yuzen (Tokyo). They are the three major Yuzen in Japan. Among these, Kyo Yuzen is considered the most gorgeous and elegant.

The inner lining includes eight different parts (hakkake) on the bottom and sleeve edges that gives the inner lining a more colorful appearance.  Houmongi is a semi-formal kimono that can be worn by both married and single women for social events. It is called second-class formal wear.

Houmongi is created by a patterning method called “Eba:” the pattern is dyed in such a way that it creates an unbroken design across the seams when the kimono is sewn together.

Physical Description

gold-beige houmongi kimono with interwoven sayagata (sauvastica, reverse swastika)  patterning motifs with dyed and gold-embroidered oogi (fan) motifs with a white and orange cream inner lining.

Primary Object Classification
Costume and Costume Accessories

Primary Object Type

Collection Area

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beige (color)
folding fans
gold (color)
silk (silkworm material)

& Author Notes

All Rights Reserved

On display